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	<title>Comments on: Motherboard Electrolytic Capacitor Replacement</title>
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		<title>By: Keith Neufeld</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=1495&#038;cpage=1#comment-29929</link>
		<dc:creator>Keith Neufeld</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 15:17:19 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Anton, I don&#039;t have a good solder sucker, hence my various methods.  In fact, neither do I have the coordination and dexterity to manipulate a solder sucker with one hand while heating the joint with the other. :-)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Anton, I don&#8217;t have a good solder sucker, hence my various methods.  In fact, neither do I have the coordination and dexterity to manipulate a solder sucker with one hand while heating the joint with the other. <img src='http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Anton Eliasson</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=1495&#038;cpage=1#comment-29913</link>
		<dc:creator>Anton Eliasson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Apr 2012 18:33:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=1495#comment-29913</guid>
		<description>My most successful method has been putting a good solder sucker on one side of the board while heating the other. Still, it&#039;s not an easy job. Fortunately, I&#039;ve found that motherboards are more durable than they look and can actually take being heated up and cooled down again repeatedly.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My most successful method has been putting a good solder sucker on one side of the board while heating the other. Still, it&#8217;s not an easy job. Fortunately, I&#8217;ve found that motherboards are more durable than they look and can actually take being heated up and cooled down again repeatedly.</p>
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		<title>By: John Laur</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=1495&#038;cpage=1#comment-29868</link>
		<dc:creator>John Laur</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Apr 2012 15:33:47 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>More info on this (relatively enormous and ridiculously long-term) industry problem is here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Whenever I do a cap replacement, I don&#039;t stop at the failed units; I do them all. The other ones are almost guaranteed to fail given time, and sometimes they fail without bulging noticeably out of the top.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>More info on this (relatively enormous and ridiculously long-term) industry problem is here: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague" rel="nofollow">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague</a></p>
<p>Whenever I do a cap replacement, I don&#8217;t stop at the failed units; I do them all. The other ones are almost guaranteed to fail given time, and sometimes they fail without bulging noticeably out of the top.</p>
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		<title>By: Al</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=1495&#038;cpage=1#comment-29863</link>
		<dc:creator>Al</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:52:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=1495#comment-29863</guid>
		<description>Nice work, I&#039;ve done this a couple of times and it&#039;s pretty satisfying to bring something back to life.

I used a solder sucker and had good results at clearing away the remaining solder (I had to add a little new solder to get things moving). Did you try a sucker after the braid? They&#039;re normally pretty good at removing solder filling holes. I&#039;m not really a fan of braid (except for SMD work).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Nice work, I&#8217;ve done this a couple of times and it&#8217;s pretty satisfying to bring something back to life.</p>
<p>I used a solder sucker and had good results at clearing away the remaining solder (I had to add a little new solder to get things moving). Did you try a sucker after the braid? They&#8217;re normally pretty good at removing solder filling holes. I&#8217;m not really a fan of braid (except for SMD work).</p>
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		<title>By: Julian Calaby</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=1495&#038;cpage=1#comment-29852</link>
		<dc:creator>Julian Calaby</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Apr 2012 23:26:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=1495#comment-29852</guid>
		<description>I did this a few years ago with a P4 board that had been seriously cooked in a poorly ventilated case.

My issue was a combination of difficulties working with RoHS compliant solder (I believe - but now you mention your copper plate issues, I&#039;m not so sure) and densely packed capacitors.

I ended up solving the first by pouring a *lot* of heat into the area and applying my old-school solder to the area which seemed to make it easier to work with. The second problem I solved by using every last milimeter of the up-rated replacement caps&#039; leads to move them off the board and eventually hot-glued them on their sides a couple of cm away from their pads.

The board has been through a lot and is still running today =)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I did this a few years ago with a P4 board that had been seriously cooked in a poorly ventilated case.</p>
<p>My issue was a combination of difficulties working with RoHS compliant solder (I believe &#8211; but now you mention your copper plate issues, I&#8217;m not so sure) and densely packed capacitors.</p>
<p>I ended up solving the first by pouring a *lot* of heat into the area and applying my old-school solder to the area which seemed to make it easier to work with. The second problem I solved by using every last milimeter of the up-rated replacement caps&#8217; leads to move them off the board and eventually hot-glued them on their sides a couple of cm away from their pads.</p>
<p>The board has been through a lot and is still running today =)</p>
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