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	<title>Comments on: Green Lines in My LCD Projector</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?feed=rss2&#038;p=150" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150</link>
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		<title>By: Rob Shell</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150&#038;cpage=1#comment-24437</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob Shell</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Feb 2010 08:33:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150#comment-24437</guid>
		<description>I also have an ancient projector Phillips and use it every day. I also have the green lines problem. When I power up the gree is there. Then as it warms up the green lines disappear, but after 90 minutes the green lines appear again.
We have a newish bulb and the video feed is OK. The green comes on regardless.
Does each colour have its own transformer or firing unit?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I also have an ancient projector Phillips and use it every day. I also have the green lines problem. When I power up the gree is there. Then as it warms up the green lines disappear, but after 90 minutes the green lines appear again.<br />
We have a newish bulb and the video feed is OK. The green comes on regardless.<br />
Does each colour have its own transformer or firing unit?</p>
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		<title>By: Daniel Baham</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150&#038;cpage=1#comment-24088</link>
		<dc:creator>Daniel Baham</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Dec 2009 21:20:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150#comment-24088</guid>
		<description>I found this entry very helpful as I&#039;ve been working to troubleshoot projector issues around our school district. Thank you for sharing your expertise and ideas! Good luck! --Daniel</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I found this entry very helpful as I&#8217;ve been working to troubleshoot projector issues around our school district. Thank you for sharing your expertise and ideas! Good luck! &#8211;Daniel</p>
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		<title>By: Keys</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150&#038;cpage=1#comment-24053</link>
		<dc:creator>Keys</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:39:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150#comment-24053</guid>
		<description>Been fighting with projectors a bit myself.  Have you tried running a video signal through it, or changing the background color?  What it looks like to me is that the blue background you are using might actually be a mix of blue and green (to get a particular shade of blue).  If the green light is showing through then that could actually indicate a problem with the blue lcd screen, not the green one. 

Also you are definitely correct about alignment.  I recently tried to replace a bad lcd with a good one from another projector (they both had at least one bad lcd).  Aligning the screens is very precise.  The only way I can see to do it would be to create some kind of rig to place the light chamber in, and mount screws around each of the lcd screens.  Unfortunately this is too complicated to do at work - but it would be fun to try.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Been fighting with projectors a bit myself.  Have you tried running a video signal through it, or changing the background color?  What it looks like to me is that the blue background you are using might actually be a mix of blue and green (to get a particular shade of blue).  If the green light is showing through then that could actually indicate a problem with the blue lcd screen, not the green one. </p>
<p>Also you are definitely correct about alignment.  I recently tried to replace a bad lcd with a good one from another projector (they both had at least one bad lcd).  Aligning the screens is very precise.  The only way I can see to do it would be to create some kind of rig to place the light chamber in, and mount screws around each of the lcd screens.  Unfortunately this is too complicated to do at work &#8211; but it would be fun to try.</p>
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		<title>By: pras</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150&#038;cpage=1#comment-21860</link>
		<dc:creator>pras</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Jun 2008 02:09:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150#comment-21860</guid>
		<description>hi keith..about running a different voltage power supply  and bulb in your projecter. all projectors except a few really ancient ones use high intensity discharge arc lamps. they are not a simple resistive load where u can feed voltage and make it glow..all arc lamps need a initial strike voltage..the typical strike voltage of projector lamps are about 25kv and the running voltage is around 80 volts -so all projectors have an electonic ballast which provides these voltages..there are different projector lamps..with different markings- uhp, p-vip, shp, hscr etc..these usually denote the manufacturer( eg- philips, osram, national,iwasaki etc)  and if the lamp runs on ac or dc etc..there are a few things to consider before modifying a projector.
making sure you have the right ballast for the right lamp
making sure there is enough cooling so the higher wattage lamp doesnt fry the electronics
somehow fooling the projectors sensor systemin thinking it has the right ballast (usually putting diodes accross optocouplers does the trick)
lumenlab is a good source of knowledge for doing a bit of ghetto engineering on projectors..google can be useful sometimes!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hi keith..about running a different voltage power supply  and bulb in your projecter. all projectors except a few really ancient ones use high intensity discharge arc lamps. they are not a simple resistive load where u can feed voltage and make it glow..all arc lamps need a initial strike voltage..the typical strike voltage of projector lamps are about 25kv and the running voltage is around 80 volts -so all projectors have an electonic ballast which provides these voltages..there are different projector lamps..with different markings- uhp, p-vip, shp, hscr etc..these usually denote the manufacturer( eg- philips, osram, national,iwasaki etc)  and if the lamp runs on ac or dc etc..there are a few things to consider before modifying a projector.<br />
making sure you have the right ballast for the right lamp<br />
making sure there is enough cooling so the higher wattage lamp doesnt fry the electronics<br />
somehow fooling the projectors sensor systemin thinking it has the right ballast (usually putting diodes accross optocouplers does the trick)<br />
lumenlab is a good source of knowledge for doing a bit of ghetto engineering on projectors..google can be useful sometimes!</p>
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		<title>By: pras</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150&#038;cpage=1#comment-21859</link>
		<dc:creator>pras</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Jun 2008 01:45:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150#comment-21859</guid>
		<description>mike burke
i havent got any experience with alligning eiki lc1..but the basic procedure is the same for all lcd projectors..get a cross hatch pattern( source google images- search for test patterns) i usually use photoshop running full screen from a laptop projecting the cross hatch..and switch off the RGB one by one ( you can buy pattern generators-which do the same thing)
i usually set the green to focus completely first..if your focus is uneven..u can changle the angle of the lcd panel..by the adjustment screws near it ..there might be a lot of screw adjustments..so..make sure u try in small increments..there are screw adjustments for focus (getting the panel parallel to the prism is important) tilt, shift ,horizontal and vertical. takes about 15-20 minutes to allign all panels with the others. bit of patience..and steady hands required</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>mike burke<br />
i havent got any experience with alligning eiki lc1..but the basic procedure is the same for all lcd projectors..get a cross hatch pattern( source google images- search for test patterns) i usually use photoshop running full screen from a laptop projecting the cross hatch..and switch off the RGB one by one ( you can buy pattern generators-which do the same thing)<br />
i usually set the green to focus completely first..if your focus is uneven..u can changle the angle of the lcd panel..by the adjustment screws near it ..there might be a lot of screw adjustments..so..make sure u try in small increments..there are screw adjustments for focus (getting the panel parallel to the prism is important) tilt, shift ,horizontal and vertical. takes about 15-20 minutes to allign all panels with the others. bit of patience..and steady hands required</p>
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		<title>By: Keith Neufeld</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150&#038;cpage=1#comment-21547</link>
		<dc:creator>Keith Neufeld</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2008 19:19:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150#comment-21547</guid>
		<description>Michael, I&#039;m sorry, but I&#039;m stumbling my way along in projector repair myself, and I don&#039;t know convergence techniques.  I can tell you that my experience with mirrors is that once you loosen them, you&#039;ll probably never get them back exactly where you want them, so I don&#039;t think that&#039;s it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Michael, I&#8217;m sorry, but I&#8217;m stumbling my way along in projector repair myself, and I don&#8217;t know convergence techniques.  I can tell you that my experience with mirrors is that once you loosen them, you&#8217;ll probably never get them back exactly where you want them, so I don&#8217;t think that&#8217;s it.</p>
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		<title>By: 3 chip lcd alignment</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150&#038;cpage=1#comment-21544</link>
		<dc:creator>3 chip lcd alignment</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Mar 2008 16:33:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150#comment-21544</guid>
		<description>hello kieth,  my name is michael burke  and i own an eiki powerhouse one model lc-x2ul  serial# g9y01063  chassis# me6-x2ul00. i think that i have an alignment problem there are red and blue shadows when projecting. is the alignment done via the 3 lcd chips or through the mirror assemblies. the unit has a manual focus lense  that is rather large it measures almost seven inches across the outside edge of its housing. all in all everything else works great except the red and blue shadows, it looks like a crt that needs a convergence. any help would be deeply appreciated.
                                thanks, mike burke</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hello kieth,  my name is michael burke  and i own an eiki powerhouse one model lc-x2ul  serial# g9y01063  chassis# me6-x2ul00. i think that i have an alignment problem there are red and blue shadows when projecting. is the alignment done via the 3 lcd chips or through the mirror assemblies. the unit has a manual focus lense  that is rather large it measures almost seven inches across the outside edge of its housing. all in all everything else works great except the red and blue shadows, it looks like a crt that needs a convergence. any help would be deeply appreciated.<br />
                                thanks, mike burke</p>
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		<title>By: Keith Neufeld</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150&#038;cpage=1#comment-21320</link>
		<dc:creator>Keith Neufeld</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Jan 2008 19:04:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150#comment-21320</guid>
		<description>Eugen, everything you want to know about specs of old projectors is at http://www.projectorcentral.com/search.cfm .</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Eugen, everything you want to know about specs of old projectors is at <a href="http://www.projectorcentral.com/search.cfm" rel="nofollow">http://www.projectorcentral.com/search.cfm</a> .</p>
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		<title>By: Eugen</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150&#038;cpage=1#comment-21319</link>
		<dc:creator>Eugen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Jan 2008 17:40:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150#comment-21319</guid>
		<description>I just found the same Projector also on ebay. Can you tell me the resolution of it ?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just found the same Projector also on ebay. Can you tell me the resolution of it ?</p>
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		<title>By: Keith Neufeld</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150&#038;cpage=1#comment-20767</link>
		<dc:creator>Keith Neufeld</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Sep 2007 14:31:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=150#comment-20767</guid>
		<description>Dave, that&#039;s not a bad idea, and I think I&#039;ll try it out.  I haven&#039;t been able to think of a good adhesive to use; but if pressure is all that&#039;s needed, foam rubber would do the job just as well.

I beg to differ -- I think it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; an elegant solution.  Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dave, that&#8217;s not a bad idea, and I think I&#8217;ll try it out.  I haven&#8217;t been able to think of a good adhesive to use; but if pressure is all that&#8217;s needed, foam rubber would do the job just as well.</p>
<p>I beg to differ &#8212; I think it <em>is</em> an elegant solution.  Thanks!</p>
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