Comments on: Repairing Roomba Scheduler

By: Keith Neufeld

Keith Neufeld — Sat, 26 Jun 2010 20:43:56 +0000

Issam, I doubt you can get Roomba schematics unless you operate an iRobot service center.

By: Issam Al-khairy

Issam Al-khairy — Sat, 26 Jun 2010 16:09:10 +0000

Hi,

I am having a problem charging my scheduler, Would you know where can I get the charging schematic from.

Regards
Issam

By: Mike

Mike — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 20:34:20 +0000

Hey next time just remove the plastic plug insert guide from the MB side it comes right off and plug in one side or the other it will work to. Just in case anyone else has this problem I had the same problem.

By: Keith Neufeld

Keith Neufeld — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 12:38:40 +0000

Jim, I don’t actually know whether both detectors were (are) working, and it seems like it could be fairly hard to stage a test that would determine it. But the PCB photograph sure looks like both header rows are wired together in parallel, which would suggest that both detectors will work. If you have yours out, you could verify with a continuity tester.

By: Jim Dekan

Jim Dekan — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 08:07:49 +0000

Keith, after you soldered the old 8-pin dirt detector connector onto the new PCB, did both detectors work? Or was that just a physical fix, so you could physically plug them both in to the new PCB? I’m wondering if the single-detector PCB is different and cannot support two detectors, even with the 8-pin connector soldered in. Thanks – Jim

By: Dave

Dave — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 19:55:37 +0000

One trick for cleaning out solder holes is to use an Aluminum or stainless steel probe. The idea is to heat the solder to well above the melting point, and then push the probe through the hole. Since both Aluminum and stainless steel aren’t solderable (well, without some specialized tricks), the solder won’t stick to the probe, but will be pushed out of the hole. Of course, that can get tedious if you’re having to do a lot of holes.

Another trick is to use an air compressor to spray a jet of air through the holes. The problem with this is that it tends to blow blobs of molten solder all over the place (Use appropriate eye/skin protection! And, do it in a workshop where you don’t care if you have solder splatters on the floor, wall, ceiling, etc.). Most people have some form of air compressor, while few have a vacuum pump (although the vacuum pump tends to be quite a bit cleaner).

Dave

By: William

William — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 18:20:41 +0000

A fine repair job and diagnosing. I will have to try the PCB drill trick for cleaning out those pesky holes. My solder sucker never seems to work right for me. Thanks for sharing.

By: Keith Neufeld

Keith Neufeld — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 04:52:34 +0000

Aaron, good point and worth mentioning. I do have a spring-plunger solder sucker, and a squeeze-bulb solder sucker, and I think at least one other kind. But somehow when I press the trigger and action and reaction happen, I have a nasty tendency to gouge circuit boards and ruin solder pads. I may just be clumsy, but I’ve learned my own limitations.

I’d love to have a full-fledged vacuum pump rework station, but can’t quite justify it for the small amount of true rework I do.

By: Aaron

Aaron — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 02:52:34 +0000

I’m surprised you don’t have a springloaded solder-sucker in your toolbox. I’ve got one around I’ve used for years, and it’s just the thing for removing solder from those through-plated holes. This one looks pretty similar to the one I’ve got:

http://www.apogeekits.com/desoldering_tool_anti-static.htm

You just push in the plunger til it locks, heat with the iron in one hand, switch from iron to sucker and push the button in one quick motion, and it vacuums up all the molten solder in the vicinity of the tip.