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	<title>Comments on: Reconing an Eminence JAY7010 Subwoofer Driver</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?feed=rss2&#038;p=716" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716</link>
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		<title>By: Don</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716&#038;cpage=1#comment-34139</link>
		<dc:creator>Don</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Mar 2020 13:56:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716#comment-34139</guid>
		<description>In 2020 the kit price is $80 + shipping or about $100. New speaker is $160. I ended up buying a 77mm ID x65mm H Alum 8 ohm coil from china for $13 including shipping. Not the same but the labor and kit is about the same as the price of a new speaker. It ended up costing me about $30 for materials per speaker. Way cheaper. I&#039;m willing to bet the AL will not deform and conduct heat better. The stock coil wire is 2 gauges larger than the replacement. I used crimps for connections from Tinsel to coil.  Playing cards cut in half for spacers. I dont know how many watts. Curve spec probably off for new speaker. Works well. These Mfgs keep coil specs and coil replacements off market to make more profit.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In 2020 the kit price is $80 + shipping or about $100. New speaker is $160. I ended up buying a 77mm ID x65mm H Alum 8 ohm coil from china for $13 including shipping. Not the same but the labor and kit is about the same as the price of a new speaker. It ended up costing me about $30 for materials per speaker. Way cheaper. I&#8217;m willing to bet the AL will not deform and conduct heat better. The stock coil wire is 2 gauges larger than the replacement. I used crimps for connections from Tinsel to coil.  Playing cards cut in half for spacers. I dont know how many watts. Curve spec probably off for new speaker. Works well. These Mfgs keep coil specs and coil replacements off market to make more profit.</p>
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		<title>By: Dan Poirier</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716&#038;cpage=1#comment-33239</link>
		<dc:creator>Dan Poirier</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 30 Dec 2017 22:27:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716#comment-33239</guid>
		<description>well i reconed a 12 inch  Mackie M1275w that goes in my Mackie C300 cabinets  and i applied the white damping solution from the top edge of the speaker all the way down to the dust cap in order to protect the paper cone from the rough northern New Brunswick weather that we get and i can tell you that the speaker sounds great with a good tight and clean sound that will make the paper cone last much longer since it makes it water proof.
That white solution is simply the white paper glue i use to use in school years ago and it&#039;s just in more of a liquid form making a good shellac for paper cone that take a beating with years of transportation and ware and tare so don&#039;t be shy to apply a good coat to the whole paper and leave it dry well and you&#039;ll have a speaker that will last you much longer.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>well i reconed a 12 inch  Mackie M1275w that goes in my Mackie C300 cabinets  and i applied the white damping solution from the top edge of the speaker all the way down to the dust cap in order to protect the paper cone from the rough northern New Brunswick weather that we get and i can tell you that the speaker sounds great with a good tight and clean sound that will make the paper cone last much longer since it makes it water proof.<br />
That white solution is simply the white paper glue i use to use in school years ago and it&#8217;s just in more of a liquid form making a good shellac for paper cone that take a beating with years of transportation and ware and tare so don&#8217;t be shy to apply a good coat to the whole paper and leave it dry well and you&#8217;ll have a speaker that will last you much longer.</p>
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		<title>By: Keith Neufeld</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716&#038;cpage=1#comment-26954</link>
		<dc:creator>Keith Neufeld</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Jan 2011 13:40:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716#comment-26954</guid>
		<description>Matt, before you order the recone, open the speaker and check the resistance of the driver&#039;s coil with an ohmmeter.  If it&#039;s 0 or &#8734;, you probably need a recone.  If it&#039;s normal, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have a different problem.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Matt, before you order the recone, open the speaker and check the resistance of the driver&#8217;s coil with an ohmmeter.  If it&#8217;s 0 or &infin;, you probably need a recone.  If it&#8217;s normal, you <em>might</em> have a different problem.</p>
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		<title>By: Matt Swaoger</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716&#038;cpage=1#comment-26946</link>
		<dc:creator>Matt Swaoger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Jan 2011 03:34:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716#comment-26946</guid>
		<description>Very nice tutorial!  I have two of these subs, and one recently stopped working.  I have come up short when trying to find a replacement woofer, but the reconing process seems easy enough, especially with the detailed account of your experience.  Thank you very much for the informative post.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Very nice tutorial!  I have two of these subs, and one recently stopped working.  I have come up short when trying to find a replacement woofer, but the reconing process seems easy enough, especially with the detailed account of your experience.  Thank you very much for the informative post.</p>
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		<title>By: Keith Neufeld</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716&#038;cpage=1#comment-24509</link>
		<dc:creator>Keith Neufeld</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2010 00:36:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716#comment-24509</guid>
		<description>Joe, excellent analysis; thanks!

When I recone the next, I&#039;ll heat the coil and see whether the adhesive softens, becomes brittle, or what exactly.  I suspect you&#039;re exactly on track.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Joe, excellent analysis; thanks!</p>
<p>When I recone the next, I&#8217;ll heat the coil and see whether the adhesive softens, becomes brittle, or what exactly.  I suspect you&#8217;re exactly on track.</p>
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		<title>By: Joe</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716&#038;cpage=1#comment-24508</link>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2010 00:30:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716#comment-24508</guid>
		<description>&quot;The voice coil looked exactly like this when I removed it from the voice coil gap. Obviously it had overheated and melted the coil wire, but why was it all gnarly like this? Maybe it welded itself lightly to the basket and decoiled when I pulled it out of the gap.&quot;

Actually, I don&#039;t think it overheated and melted the coil wire. It probably got hot enough to melt/soften the adhesive binding the coil to the tube. When you run electricity through a coil like that, the wires all sitting next to each other suddenly want to get away from each other, so there&#039;s an ever-present force trying to &quot;explode&quot; the coil. Once the glue melted, the coil was able to un-coil and the wire probably caught on something and broke immediately, or it rubbed on something until it wore through.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8220;The voice coil looked exactly like this when I removed it from the voice coil gap. Obviously it had overheated and melted the coil wire, but why was it all gnarly like this? Maybe it welded itself lightly to the basket and decoiled when I pulled it out of the gap.&#8221;</p>
<p>Actually, I don&#8217;t think it overheated and melted the coil wire. It probably got hot enough to melt/soften the adhesive binding the coil to the tube. When you run electricity through a coil like that, the wires all sitting next to each other suddenly want to get away from each other, so there&#8217;s an ever-present force trying to &#8220;explode&#8221; the coil. Once the glue melted, the coil was able to un-coil and the wire probably caught on something and broke immediately, or it rubbed on something until it wore through.</p>
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		<title>By: Sound Speaker Repair</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716&#038;cpage=1#comment-24256</link>
		<dc:creator>Sound Speaker Repair</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jan 2010 19:38:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716#comment-24256</guid>
		<description>We do not have kits for Yamaha speakers. We do have original kits for all Eminence brand cast frame speakers but not OEM speakers made by Eminence. We carry a very few select recone kits that we consecrate on to keep the kits we sell the very best kits available.

Yes, the damping solution goes on the pleats. The damping solution is used to seal cloth surrounds so air does not pass throw the surround. With that being said, you do not need to put the damping solution on the part of the surround that attaches to the cone or the frame but it wont hurt either. It does not matter if you do it at home or if the factory does it for you, but if the factory does it then you don’t have to saving you time. FYI, we pre-treat every surround on our kits with damping solution before they leave our shop.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We do not have kits for Yamaha speakers. We do have original kits for all Eminence brand cast frame speakers but not OEM speakers made by Eminence. We carry a very few select recone kits that we consecrate on to keep the kits we sell the very best kits available.</p>
<p>Yes, the damping solution goes on the pleats. The damping solution is used to seal cloth surrounds so air does not pass throw the surround. With that being said, you do not need to put the damping solution on the part of the surround that attaches to the cone or the frame but it wont hurt either. It does not matter if you do it at home or if the factory does it for you, but if the factory does it then you don’t have to saving you time. FYI, we pre-treat every surround on our kits with damping solution before they leave our shop.</p>
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		<title>By: Keith Neufeld</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716&#038;cpage=1#comment-24254</link>
		<dc:creator>Keith Neufeld</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jan 2010 19:08:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716#comment-24254</guid>
		<description>Sound Speaker Repair, it&#039;s very thoughtful of you to comment here even though I bought this kit from your competitor!  (I think you didn&#039;t have this particular kit, or I couldn&#039;t find it at the time.)

So the damping solution goes on the pleats???  The entire fabric section, or just the pleats?  What&#039;s it for, and why is it better for me to apply it at home than to have it applied at the factory?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sound Speaker Repair, it&#8217;s very thoughtful of you to comment here even though I bought this kit from your competitor!  (I think you didn&#8217;t have this particular kit, or I couldn&#8217;t find it at the time.)</p>
<p>So the damping solution goes on the pleats???  The entire fabric section, or just the pleats?  What&#8217;s it for, and why is it better for me to apply it at home than to have it applied at the factory?</p>
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		<title>By: Sound Speaker Repair</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716&#038;cpage=1#comment-24253</link>
		<dc:creator>Sound Speaker Repair</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jan 2010 18:51:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716#comment-24253</guid>
		<description>Yes you need to apply the damping solution to the pleats of the surround.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes you need to apply the damping solution to the pleats of the surround.</p>
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		<title>By: la23ng</title>
		<link>http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716&#038;cpage=1#comment-24252</link>
		<dc:creator>la23ng</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jan 2010 18:37:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=716#comment-24252</guid>
		<description>Ah, no suggestion, but a question: have you got an idea what sort of adhesive that was?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ah, no suggestion, but a question: have you got an idea what sort of adhesive that was?</p>
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